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Puerto Rico
11/10/2017 10:50:30 PM
José Andrés Fed Puerto Rico, and May Change How Aid Is Given

SAN JUAN, P.R. — José Andrés was walking along a dark street in a stained T-shirt and a ball cap, trying to decompress after another day of feeding an island that has been largely without electricity since Hurricane Maria hit a month ago.

He’d gone barely half a block before two women ran over to snag a selfie. A man shouted out his name from a bar running on a generator and offered to buy him a rum sour.

The reaction is more subdued in rural mountain communities like Naguabo, where Mr. Andrés and his crew have been delivering supplies so cooks at a small Pentecostal church can make 5,000 servings of arroz con pollo and carne guisada every day. There, people touch his sleeve and whisper, “Gracias.” They surround him and pray.

“He’s much more than a hero,” said Jesus R. Rivera, who was inside a cigar store watching Mr. Andrés pick out one of his daily smokes. “The situation is that still some people don’t even have food. He is all that is keeping them from starving.”

It’s overwhelming, even for Mr. Andrés, the larger-than-life, Michelin-starred Spanish chef with a prolific, unfiltered social media presence, who got into a legal fight with the Trump Organization after Donald Trump made disparaging comments about Mexicans.

Mr. Andrés (center), his nonprofit World Central Kitchen and local chefs (joined under the name #chefsforpuertorico) spent a month cooking stews and paella in the parking lot of the largest stadium in Puerto Rico to feed people after Hurricane Maria. Credit Eric Rojas for The New York Times


“Every day I have this personal anxiety inside,” Mr. Andrés said during a Jeep ride through the countryside in late October. “We only came here to try to help a few thousand because nobody had a plan to feed Puerto Rico, and we opened the biggest restaurant in the world in a week. That’s how crazy this is.”

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