http://www.asbestos.org/Microbial/MoldClean-Up.html

Clean-Up:

GENERAL CLEAN-UP PROCEDURES

• Identify and correct the moisture source
• Clean, disinfect, and dry the moldy area
• Bag and dispose any material that has moldy residues, such as rags, paper, leaves, or debris.

What can I save? What should I toss?

Substances that are porous and can trap molds, such as paper, rags, wallboard, and rotten wood should be decontaminated and thrown out. Harder materials such as glass, plastic, or metal can be kept after they are cleaned and disinfected.

Ultimately, it is critical to remove the source of moisture first, before beginning remedial action, since mold growth will return shortly if an effected area becomes re-wetted.

Removal of Moldy Materials

After fixing the moisture source and removing excess moisture, the cleanup can begin:

• Wear gloves when handling moldy materials
• Remove porous materials (examples: ceiling tiles, sheetrock, carpeting, wood products)
• Carpeting can be a difficult problem - drying does not remove the dead spoors. If there is heavy mold, disposal of the carpet should be considered
• Bag and discard the moldy substances
• Allow the area to dry 2 or 3 days
• If flooded, remove all sheetrock to at least 12 inches above the high water mark. Visually inspect the wall interior and remove any other intrusive molds. (This step may have to be carried out by a licensed contractor).

CAUTION: Spores are easily released when moldy material is dried out.

Soap Cleanup

Before disinfecting contaminated areas, clean the areas to remove as much of the mold (and food it is growing on) as possible.

• Wear gloves when doing this cleanup
• Use a non-ammonia soap or detergent, or a commercial cleaner, in hot water, and scrub the entire area affected by the mold
• Use a stiff brush or cleaning pad on block walls or uneven surfaces
• Rinse clean with water. A wet/dry vacuum is handy for this.

Disinfect Surfaces

• Wear gloves when using disinfectants
• After thorough cleaning and rinsing, disinfect the area with a solution of 10% household bleach (e.g., 1 1/2 cup bleach per gallon of water). Using bleach straight from the bottle will not be more effective.
• Never mix bleach with Ammonia - the fumes are toxic
• For spraying exterior large areas, a garden hose and nozzle can be used
• When disinfecting a large structure, make sure the entire surface is wetted (floor, joists, and posts)
• Avoid excessive amounts of runoff or standing bleach
• Let disinfecting areas dry naturally overnight -- this extended time is important to kill all the mold.

CAUTION: Bleach fumes can irritate the eyes, nose, and throat, and damage clothing and shoes. Make sure the working area is ventilated well.

Can Cleaning up mold be hazardous to my health?

Yes. Exposure to mold can occur during the cleaning stage. Mold counts are typically 10 to 1000 times higher than background levels during the cleaning of mold damaged materials. Take steps to protect your health during cleanup:

• When handling or cleaning moldy materials, consider using a mask or respirator to protect you from breathing airborne spores. Respirators can be purchased from hardware stores; select one for particle removal (sometimes referred to as a N95 or TC-21C particulate respirator). Respirators are not as effective removing bleach fumes, so minimize your exposure when using bleach or other disinfectants.
• Wear protective clothing that is easily cleaned or discarded
• Use rubber gloves
• Try cleaning a small test patch of mold first. If you feel that this adversely affected your health, you should consider paying a licensed contractor or professional to carry out the work
• Ask family members or bystanders to leave areas when being cleaned
• Work over short time spans and rest in a fresh air location
• Air your house out well during after the work

CAUTION: Never use a gasoline engine indoors (e.g. pressure washer, generator) -- you could expose yourself and your family to carbon monoxide.

Can Air Duct Systems become Contaminated with Mold?

Yes. Air duct systems can become contaminated with mold. Duct systems can be constructed of bare sheet metal, sheet metal with an exterior fibrous glass insulation, sheet metal with an internal fibrous glass liner, or made entirely of fibrous glass. [ed note: CAUTION: older duct systems may be asbestos insulated.] If your home's air duct system has had water damage, first identify the type of air duct construction that you have. Bare sheet metal systems, or sheet metal with exterior fibrous glass insulation, can be cleaned and disinfected.

If your system has sheet metal with an internal fibrous glass liner, or are made entirely of fibrous glass, the ductwork normally will need to be removed and discarded. Ductwork in difficult locations may have to be abandoned. If you have other questions, contact an air duct cleaning professional, or licensed contractor.

After I've cleaned everything as thoroughly as possible, can I still have mold odors?

Yes. It is possible that odors may persist. continue to dry out the area and search for any hidden areas of mold. If the area continues to smell musty, you may have to reclean the area again (follow the cleaning steps given in this sheet). continue to dry and ventilate the area. Don't replace flooring or begin rebuilding until the area has dried completely.

How can further damage to my home be prevented?

Check regularly for the following:

• moisture condensation on windows
• cracking of plasterboard
• drywall tape loosening
• wood warping
• musty odor

If you see any of the above, seek out and take steps to eliminate the source of water penetration, as quickly as possible.

Can Ozone air cleaners help remove indoor mold, or reduce odor or pollution levels?

Some air cleaners are designed to produce ozone. Ozone is a strong oxidizing agent used as a disinfectant in water and sometimes to eliminate odors. However, ozone is a known lung irritant. Symptoms associated with exposure include cough, chest pain, and eye, nose, and throat irritation. Ozone generators have been shown to generate indoor levels above the safe limit. Furthermore, it has been demonstrated that ozone is not effective in controlling molds and fungi, even at high concentrations far above safe health levels. Also, ozone may damage materials in the home. For these reasons, the California Department of Health Services strongly recommends that you do not use an ozone air cleaner in any occupied residential space. Refer to the CDHS IAQ Info Sheet: Health Hazards of Ozone-generating Air Cleaning Devices (January 1998).

This Info Sheet provide by California Department of Health Services, Indoor Air Quality Section. www.dhs.ca.gov/org/ps/deodc/ehlb/iaqs/

Safely Preventing Mold Growth

Clean up and dry out the building quickly (within 24 to 48 hours). Open doors and windows. Use fans to dry out the building. (See the fact sheet for drying out your house, Reentering Your Flooded Home).

• When in doubt, take it out! Remove all porous items that have been wet for more than 48 hours and that cannot be thoroughly cleaned and dried. These items can remain a source of mold growth and should be removed from the home. Porous, noncleanable items include carpeting and carpet padding, upholstery, wallpaper, drywall, floor and ceiling tiles, insulation material, some clothing, leather, paper, wood, and food. Removal and cleaning are important because even dead mold may cause allergic reactions in some people.
• To prevent mold growth, clean wet items and surfaces with detergent and water.
• Homeowners may want to temporarily store items outside of the home until insurance claims can be filed. See recommendations by the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) .
• If you wish to disinfect, refer to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) document, A Brief Guide to Mold and Moisture in Your Home.

If there is mold growth in your home, you should clean up the mold and fix any water problem, such as leaks in roofs, walls, or plumbing. Controlling moisture in your home is the most critical factor for preventing mold growth.

To remove mold growth from hard surfaces use commercial products, soap and water, or a bleach solution of no more than 1 cup of bleach in 1 gallon of water. Use a stiff brush on rough surface materials such as concrete.

If you choose to use bleach to remove mold:

• Never mix bleach with ammonia or other household cleaners. Mixing bleach with ammonia or other cleaning products will produce dangerous, toxic fumes
• Open windows and doors to provide fresh air.
• Wear non-porous gloves and protective eye wear.
• If the area to be cleaned is more than 10 square feet, consult the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) guide titled Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings . Although focused on schools and commercial buildings, this document also applies to other building types. You can get it free by calling the EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse at (800) 438-4318, or by going to the EPA web site at http://www.epa.gov/mold/mold_remediation.html.
• Always follow the manufacturer's instructions when using bleach or any other cleaning product.
• More information on personal safety while cleaning up after a natural disaster is available at emergency.cdc.gov/disasters/workers.asp.

If you plan to be inside the building for a while or you plan to clean up mold, you should buy an N95 mask at your local home supply store and wear it while in the building. Make certain that you follow instructions on the package for fitting the mask tightly to your face. If you go back into the building for a short time and are not cleaning up mold, you do not need to wear an N95 mask.

Other Mold Resources

• Clean Up Safely After a Natural Disaster
• Reentering Your Flooded Home
• Mold - General Resources
• NIOSH Interim Recommendations for the Cleaning and Remediation of Flood-Contaminated HVAC Systems: A Guide for Building Owners and Managers
• Population-Specific Recommendations for Protection From Exposure to Mold in Buildings Flooded After Hurricanes Katrina and Rita

• Page last reviewed May 14, 2007
  Page last updated August 25, 2006
• Content source: Air Pollution and Respiratory Health Branch (APRHB), Division of Environmental Hazards and Health Effects (EHHE), National Center for Environmental Health (NCEH), Coordinating Center for Environmental Health and Injury Prevention (CCEHIP)

http://www.bt.cdc.gov/disasters/mold/protect.asp

Hello Jim,

Glad to see that you posted the information on mold and how to effectively combat it if necessary.

I read both your and the other guy's post rebutting your information and understood that regardless of which path you choose there is a solution so if it can be solved what is the problem?

It's a shame that disagreeing with others opinions lead to banning and deleting relevant and informative posts.

I wonder why so few are interested in the other forum and when you showed interest you were portrayed as "annoying" and being off topic.

I'll ask you a few questions that have been bothering me for quite a while. When someone's home is stricken with mold why was nothing done about it? Why wait and get sick and cry foul when you could either have dealt with the problem or if it was so bad moved out of the infected home? Why subject your family to such an environment? The last question is why wait till they leave and then be so worried about having them tested? Why wasn't that done while they were still around?

I consider myself to be a logical person and could never figure out the answers to those questions. maybe you can help me with some answers.

Shalom,

Peter

P.S. If you find this post annoying or off topic please feel free to delete it. I definitely wouldn't want to be considered annoying or off topic! Oh, I forgot in this thread it's allowed since it is called "Everything is Open For Discussion".  :)

When someone's home is stricken with mold why was nothing done about it?

From my own experience, most folks are unaware of the source.  Many scoffaw about it being the cause of symptoms and refuse the cure.  Kinda like having a heart attack and refusing to go to the hospital, with the ambulance sitting there.

Why wait and get sick and cry foul when you could either have dealt with the problem or if it was so bad moved out of the infected home?

Well now that is a tough one to answer.  However, I am sure the current administration will placate the have not by choice with the proceeds from those that work and pay taxes crowd. 

Checkable by a simple five minute test, or by a good HVAC service company. 

Mold will pick on the weak so if you are already ill and living with mold you really should address the problem or leave the premisies.  There are hundreds of vacant buildings due to mold infestation.  Most cases are caused by poor air circulation and filtration, along with a lack of regular maintenance.

I wonder why so few are interested in the other forum and when you showed interest you were portrayed as "annoying" and being off topic.

Many folks will disagree just because they don't like the message or the messenger.  I am sure their doctor would have advised them of doing just that had they been aware of the level of infestation.

Peter, the rest of your questions are best answered by someone other than myself.  As for myself my youngest son has asthma since he was a baby, so I learned what contaminants caused his wheezing and learned that mold was a trigger for him.  Needless to say there are no airborne mold spores floating about my home other than those brought in by opening the doors.  Those are generally harmless.

Mold growth in your HVAC system though will breed and grow and can create havoc on those with weakened immune systems.

Thanks for dropping in with your comments.

Jim